Selected work
Updated intermittently.
2024
Financial Times: Beyond Machu Picchu — exploring the real last city of the Incas
Though barely visited, Espíritu Pampa remains a powerful reminder of a lost empireThe Guardian: Alarm over new law giving Paraguay powers to crack down on NGOs
Activists liken it to civil society crackdowns in Venezuela, Nicaragua, and RussiaThe New York Times: An Alarming Glimpse Into a Future of Historic Droughts
Additional reporting.
The Guardian: As fires decimate South America, smoke shrouds its skies
Additional reporting.The New York Times: Paraguay Loves Mickey, Its Cartoon Mouse. Disney Doesn’t
Mickey, a food-packaging company, is famous for facing down Disney in Paraguay’s Supreme CourtDelayed Gratification #55: A coup is mounted in Bolivia
But was it real?The New York Times: Uruguay’s 2024 Election: What to Know
Crime, child poverty and an aging population are top issuesAmericas Quarterly: Under Peña, Paraguay Grows But Its Politics Look Uncertain
Critics worry about rule of law and the influence of a powerful former leaderThe Economist: Crypto cowboys have found paradise in Paraguay
Cheap electricity, lax laws and low taxes: what’s not to like?The New York Times: 36 Hours in Asunción, Paraguay
How best to spend a weekend in the mother of citiesThe New York Times 52 Places: Montevideo, Uruguay
South America’s most laid-back capital turns 300
2023
The Economist: Latin America’s armed forces have increasing clout
After 30 years of quiet, they are back in parts of the regionThe Economist: Over a million Paraguayans disappear in the latest census
The country’s population is a fifth smaller than thought. Why?The New York Times: Uruguay Saw Opportunity in China. It Got Schooled in the Hazards of Trade
Producing, translating and additional reportingThe New York Times: Welcome Aboard the Aquidaban, the Floating Jungle Supermarket
Producing, translating and additional reportingThe New York Times: One Secret to a Latin American Party’s Dominance: Buying Votes
Producing, translating and additional reportingThe New York Times: Paraguay Voters Elect Conservative Economist as President
The right-wing Colorado Party has run Paraguay for all but five of the past 76 yearsThe New York Times: Paraguay Picks a New President: What You Need to Know
An anti-corruption crusader and a far-right firebrand take on an entrenched conservative partyThe Economist: Uruguay is losing its reputation as Latin America’s success story
Crime and corruption scandals have hurt the conservative presidentThe Economist: The U.S. Says Corruption in Paraguay Starts at the Top
The Colorado Party will shrug off fresh sanctions
2022
The Architectural Review: Reclaiming Asunción
Paraguay's dictatorship stole a dozen public parks. Now, people want them back
The Economist: Rafting with Rebels
Some ex-FARC guerrillas have become tourist guides in Colombia. Plus, a feature on The Intelligence podcastThe Guardian: ‘The PCC are after me’: the drug cartel with Paraguay in its clutches
A Brazilian former prison gang threatens to turn its neighbour into a narcostate
BBC World Service: Mateo the memory keeper
Mateo Sobode Chiqueno’s tapes are a fragile link to a culture at risk of disappearing – along with the forest the Ayoreo call homeJacobin: A Decade After Lugo Was Ousted, Paraguay’s Left Has a Chance to Regain Power
The 2012 coup against Fernando Lugo cut short the only period of left-wing rule in Paraguay’s modern historyThe Economist: A new motorway in Paraguay could eventually rival the Panama Canal
That is, if governments in Brazil and Argentina build their connecting roads, too
The Guardian: Migrants brave Darién Gap in pursuit of the American dream
Last year a record 133,000 people risked their lives on a perilous trek through a lawless jungle – and the numbers keep risingThe Guardian: Chile’s archaeologists fight to save the world’s oldest mummies from climate change
The desert graveyard where the ancient Chinchorro decorated and buried their dead is now a Unesco World Heritage siteDelayed Gratification: can Chile’s new president and constitution solve the Mapuche conflict?
Gabriel Boric promises dialogue with the country’s largest indigenous nation. Will it be enough?The Guardian: The man recording the lives of Paraguay’s vanishing forest people
A lifelong project recording the Ayoreo people’s struggle is now the subject of an award-winning film
The Guardian: Paraguay capital choked by colossal smog cloud from Argentina wildfires
Smoke blown from fires in drought-stricken Argentina shrouds Asunción in dangerous hazeThe Guardian: Paraguay’s new Chaco highway threatens rare forest and last of the Ayoreo people
The Bioceanic Corridor cuts through the fastest-vanishing forest on Earth, refuge of some of the Americas’ last hunter-gatherersRest of World: How one of South America’s biggest dams became a Bitcoin battleground
Crypto miners are organizing to keep the cheapest electricity in the Americas flowing to Paraguay
2021
The Guardian: Gabriel Boric’s triumph puts wind in the sails of Latin America’s resurgent left
The decisive victory reflects Chileans’ revolt against a threadbare welfare system and rampant inequalityThe Guardian: Albion absolved: Britain was not secret instigator of Paraguay war, book claims
Notion that South American neighbours had a ‘fourth ally’ in War of the Triple Alliance is a myth, author saysThe Guardian: Land clashes over agribusiness rock Paraguay
Police tear down homes and rip up crops, highlighting the country’s highly unequal land ownershipThe Guardian: Newly translated letters offer indigenous take on Brazil’s bloody birth
Dutch-Portuguese war split the Potiguara people but their correspondence across battle lines has finally been translatedThe Intercept: Bolivian Ex-Minister of Defense Plotted a Second Coup Using U.S. Mercenaries
Investigation: a top official was prepared to use foreign troops to block Bolivia’s left-wing MAS party from returning to power
2020
Foreign Policy: Why Fishing Could Sink Britain’s Brexit Deal With Europe
Battles over fish stocks—and struggling coastal communities—could drag U.K.-EU ties onto the rocksRest of World: When Worlds Collide
5G conspiracy theories combine with an Andean community’s long-standing mistrust of outsidersThe Economist: Crossing the pond
Charco Press is bringing new Latin American fiction to British readersThe Guardian: Is Bolivia's 'interim' president using the pandemic to outstay her welcome?
Jeanine Áñez has postponed elections and persecuted political opponentsThe Economist: Burning down the house
In “Ema”, Pablo Larraín aims a flamethrower at conservative ChileHistory Today: The Inca’s Last Stand
An Indigenous rebellion in colonial Argentina resonates to this day (cover story)
2019
New Statesman: Latin Americans in the UK fight for recognition
Fast-growing community makes its mark in the arts but remains politically invisibleV&A Museum: Water Wars and the Miracle Mineral
Resisting mining in South America’s lithium triangleThe Guardian: Archaeologists fear Bolsonaro agenda will kill Amazon civilisation research
Cuts to science funding, legal changes, and drive to “develop” rainforest risks priceless evidenceThe Guardian: The gradual rise and sudden fall of Evo Morales
Cocalero-turned-president transformed Bolivia during 14 years before dramatic ousterThe Guardian: Conquistadors tumble as indigenous Chileans tear down statues
Mapuche protesters launch attacks on symbols of Spanish colonial ruleThe Guardian: History of free African strongholds fires Brazilian resistance to Bolsonaro
Quilombo dos Palmares becomes a touchstone for a new generationAmericas Quarterly: Why Has Energy Spawned a Political Crisis in Paraguay?
A scandal involving the Itaipú dam unfoldsFinancial Times: Infrastructure shortfall blunts Asunción’s modernity drive
Growing pains affect Paraguay’s capitalRoads and Kingdoms: Asunción City Guide
How to eat soup with a forkNew Statesman: Latin America’s right launches a war on memory
As the pink tide turns, history becomes a battlegroundBBC Radio 4: Operation Mercury
Inside the illegal gold mines poisoning Peru’s Amazon [from 16.45 mins]
2018
Explore Parts Unknown: The Perfect Day in Asunción
How to spend 24 hours in the mother of citiesThe Guardian: Cartel murder shocks Paraguay
“They’re killing us like dogs”The Guardian: Paraguay’s bitcoin boom
Rival visions for ItaipuThe Guardian: Bolivia hopes for a path to the Pacific
Bolivia awaits a key ruling by the ICJThe Guardian: Peru’s last Inca city reveals its secrets
”It’s genuinely a marvel”The Guardian: How an army of volunteers defeated malaria in Paraguay
The first country in South America to eliminate the disease shares its storyThe Guardian: The toll of pregnancy on Paraguay’s children
“It destroyed the girl she was”The Economist: The blossom and the passion flower
Paraguay’s long relationship with Taiwan continues to pay offThe Guardian: Identifying Chile’s Stonehenge
”We’re writing and recovering our own history”BBC Radio 4: Simulating the sea
Setting sail with Bolivia's landlocked finest [from 18.20 mins]The Economist: Sighting the sun god
Archaeologists and astronomers discover Inca calendars in the AtacamaBBC World Histories: the African Army of the Andes
In the footsteps of a revolutionary 1817 campaignNational Geographic: The New Andean Architecture
Freddy Mamani’s colorful designs are transforming El Alto, BoliviaThe Guardian: Paraguay moves Israel embassy to Jerusalem
"It’s unclear what Paraguay gets from the move”The Economist: The son of an ex-dictator’s secretary is elected Paraguay's president
New man, old partyAmericas Quarterly: Five takeaways from Paraguay's elections
The Colorado party clinches another victoryThe Guardian: Mario Abdo Benitez wins election
Peace and Progress, v.2.0The Guardian: Haunted by ghosts of dictatorship, Paraguay pivots right
“You have to be afraid of those who are alive, not the dead”Disegno Journal: Ciudad Rebelde
El Alto, "cholets," Aymara hip-hop, and Bolivia's space agencyBBC Radio 4: Stroessner's shadow
Searching for the victims of South America's longest-serving dictator. [from 18:10 mins]BBC Radio 4: Evo's museum of me
A visit to the Museum of the Democratic and Cultural Revolution [from 11:25 mins]BBC World Service: a Chile welcome
Migrants from across the continent adjust to a cooler climate [from 11:20 mins}The Economist: Coming unstuck
Latin America needs an infrastructure upgradeThe Guardian: The ecological catastrophe that turned a vast Bolivian lake into a salt desert
Lake Poopó is fast disappearing, and taking an ancient culture's way of of life with it
2017
Delayed Gratification: The return of the Golden Indian
One of Paraguay's all-time boxing greats returns to the ring for a shot at redemptionThe Guardian: More than 350 million Latin American voters to elect new leaders in 2018
Is a continent-wide backlash against corruption brewing?The Guardian: Bolivia's African king leads a long-neglected group out of the shadows
Meet Julio I - farmer, grocer, and South America's last monarchThe Guardian: Evo forever? Bolivia scraps term limits, critics slam "coup" by Morales
School shoes, football shirts, and a missed chance to become a new MandelaThe Guardian: Che Guevara's legacy still contentious 50 years after his death in Bolivia
Tracing the final steps of the Argentine guerrillaAmericas Quarterly: Argentina's Milagro Sala - criminal, or political prisoner?
Tupac Amaru, crumbling dinosaurs, yawning national dividesThe Economist: Where is Santiago Maldonado?
A missing-person case looms over Argentina's mid-termsAmericas Quarterly: What happened at Curuguaty?
Remembering a massacre, five years onBBC Radio 4: Narcopolitics
Life is cheap on the Paraguay-Brazil border. [From 06.20mins]World Politics Review: The land war (+ trendlines podcast)
Indigenous Ayoreo and campesino communities are on the frontline in ParaguayThe Guardian: Paraguay's constitutional crisis
Several on-the-ground reports from Paraguay's pseudo-coup of March-April 2017The Economist: Congress in flames
A row over re-election in ParaguayAmericas Quarterly: South America's "Silver River" promises new riches
A ten-day voyage from Montevideo to Asunción reveals a region dividedAvaunt Magazine: The Navy without a Sea [£]
A look at daily life for Bolivia's (landlocked) finest. With photos by Nick Ballon
2016
The Economist: A year in the life
A look at some of the momentous (and obscure) anniversaries of 2017The Economist: A newly-connected continent
The Nicaragua Canal won't happen, but other projects are forging links within Latin AmericaThe Economist: Of Eire and exile
"Further Beyond" breaks the biopic mouldThe Economist: Gibraltar and Brexit: Rock out
A territory is dragged from the European Union. Spain loomsThe Economist: Returning the hatchet
Latin American governments are starting to return looted treasures to their neighboursFT Life & Arts: Dreams of the Sea
Bolivia's battle to reclaim its lost coastline. Winner of the 2015 Bodley Head/FT essay prize
2015
The Guardian: In Paraguay's remote north guerillas are still at large, armed and dangerous
A shadowy insurgency runs rings around the authorities. Some wonder if the government really wants to capture themThe Guardian: Paraguayan 11-year-old gives birth after pregnancy sparked abortion debate
In a deeply conservative society, Mainumby is one of the hundreds of children subjected to abuse every yearThe Guardian: Historic papal meeting can help change minds in Paraguay, says LGBT activist
Simon Cazal was left for dead after a homophobic attack. Things are changing, slowlyThe Guardian: Nueva Londres: where Paraguay, Australia, and Great Britain converge
A short look at a utopian tee-totalling experiment in the heart of South America, and its modern inheritorsThe Guardian: Paraguay deploys anti-narco top guns to combat economic need for weed
Crime pays in South America's number-one marijuana-producer. Is the local chapter in the war on drugs working?The Guardian: Paraguay activists ensure government’s oil ambitions will be no walk in the park
The prospect of oil exploration at a historic battlefield in the Chaco is provoking fresh conflict